A Tudor day out

J A Gilbert
Feb 23, 2017
3 min read

As you know, I work part-time as a guide at Arundel Castle, which is the ancestral home of the Fitzalan-Howard family, who are the Dukes of Norfolk. They are inextricably linked to English history, especially the Tudor period, as two of the nieces of the Third Duke were wives of Henry VIII, namely Anne Boleyn and Katharine Howard.

I have to confess that the Tudor period is not my favourite era, as it is a bit too modern for me. I prefer what used to be called the Dark Ages and my level of interest usually decreases after the Norman Conquest. However, the Tudor age is growing on me.

This may sound a rather rambling introduction, but it will all make sense in a couple of paragraphs’ time.

This month I went on a day trip to Stratford upon Avon with Ann, who also works at the Castle. It was a day excursion organised by Worthing Coaches, with Gemma as our driver. They are our local coach company and they organise a wide range of interesting days out.

It began raining as we drove through Hampshire, but as we travelled further north, the weather improved. By the time we reached Stratford, the clouds were parting and the sun had come out.

Even though it is still only February, we were surprised by the number of tourists who were there, although I doubt whether the town is ever really quiet. The connection with William Shakespeare will always attract visitors and keeps the souvenir shops in business.

We arrived at lunchtime and decided to find a restaurant straightaway, thinking that they would quickly fill up. A steak and kidney pudding, with chips and peas was the ideal way to fill us up too.

Once we had eaten, we headed to Tudor World, in Sheep Street, which is an award-winning, independent museum housed in a Tudor building.

We were greeted by a very pleasant and well-informed lady in Tudor costume, who delighted in relating her experiences of the ghosts who inhabit the building. Unfortunately we never met the small, disembowelled child or the man who walks with his head hanging to one side, as if his neck were broken! They didn’t show up on the photos I took either.

We did however, enjoy the displays concerning life in Tudor times, especially the tableaux relating to the plague and crime and punishment. At work we often have to explain the intricacies of hanging, drawing and quartering to visitors, as that was the sentence handed down to the Fourth Duke of Norfolk. Luckily for him though, Queen Elizabeth commuted it to beheading. The museum display emphasised just how gruesome this form of punishment was, especially as it was performed in public before a crowd of onlookers.

The plague doctor

The displays also tell the history of the house and of some of its inhabitants. Over the centuries it has been used for various purposes, including as a tavern, a church, a hospital and the home to several mayors.

More details about Tudor World can be found on their website http://www.tudorworld.com/

From the museum we wandered down to the River Avon and watched one of the canal boats navigating its way through a lock to the river itself. If we had had more time available, a river cruise would have been an enjoyable way to spend the afternoon, especially as it was so sunny and warm. However, we were not sure if we could complete a cruise and make it back to the coach drop off point in time to leave, so we decided to defer that for another visit.

Instead we wandered along the river and past the Royal Shakespeare Company Theatre, before heading along Chapel Lane to the Guild Chapel. By a complete chance, we arrived at the same time as a young man, who was there to practice on the organ. It was the perfect accompaniment as we wandered round the church, looking at the wall paintings and the glorious stained-glass windows.